Make sure that it’s clean, and that any inconsistent surfaces are corrected
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Drywall will need to be free of holes, cracks, and sealed with a skim coat
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Remove wallpaper, or any loose wall covering such as paint or existing tile
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If using backer board such as Hardie, seal with Redguard or other moisture barrier/bonding primer
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Install Schlüter to define the space and serve as your finished edge where necessary
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Wall tile layout
Center a tile horizontally along the length of the wall and do a quick dry-fit to make sure that the tile at the end of the rows isn’t to small. If so, adjust your layout to have wider tile on the sides
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For the vertical layout, begin your pattern at the top of the wall so there'll be full, uncut tile at the top. That way, if you do have to cut tile to fit, they'll be at the bottom where the tub or shower pan might be slightly out of level.
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If the bottom row of tile needs to be cut, start your installation with the second row. Measure and mark the spot for your second row of tile, check your mark for level and then attach a board to the wall to act as a guide
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Thinset
Mix thinset to the consistency or frosting or creamy peanut butter
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With a notched trowel, apply thinset in small sections that you will be immediately working on, so that it doesn’t dry before you can get around to setting tile in it
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Setting tile
Set tile with spacers in between to create a consistent gap and allow for grout
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Check set tile to make sure that it’s level and all planes in
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Cut or modify tile that is to be set in spaces that won’t allow for full tiles
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Check grout coverage by pulling off a tile that has been set. If not covered with grout, you may need to switch to a trowel with larger notches
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Remove guide board and set first row of tile
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Grout
After thinset is dry, (usually 24hrs) spacers can be removed and grout can be applied. Apply grout with a grout float in a diagonal direction
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After 10 minutes, tile can be cleaned using a sponge that has been squeezed of most of its water, being careful to only remove tile surface grout rather than grout from the gaps in between the tile
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When completely dry, the final haze can be removed using cheesecloth
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Finish
Apply grout sealant to grout
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Caulk corners edges and joints that couldn’t be caulked
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Floor Tile:
Surface prep
Make sure that the surface is clean, and that any inconsistent surfaces are corrected
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For floors, this could be achieved by using self leveler on concrete, and tile membrane on wood sub-floor
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Tile membrane
Apply thinset to sub-floor, at a consistency that allows trowel notches to create freestanding ridges
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Apply pre-cut membrane
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Seal seams with thinset and waterproofing tape
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Tile layout and setting
Measure and mark center points using a chalk line
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Dry fit to check layout
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Mix thinset to peanut butter consistency and apply only to the section you’re immediately working
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Use spacers to ensure 1/4’ gap for grout
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Remove excess thinset with a damp sponge, and level as you go using a 4’-6’ level
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Tile that aren’t level can be adjusted gently with a rubber mallet
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Cut tile as needed
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Grout
After thinset is dry, (usually 24hrs) spacers can be removed and grout can be applied. Apply grout with a grout float in a diagonal direction
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After 10 minutes, tile can be cleaned using a sponge that has been squeezed of most of its water, being careful to only remove tile surface grout rather than grout from the gaps in between the tile
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When completely dry, the final haze can be removed using cheesecloth. If haze is persistent, a slightly damp microfiber towel should remove anything that the cheesecloth couldn't
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Finish
Apply grout sealant to grout
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Caulk corners edges and joints that couldn’t be grouted
